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Volvo Penta Anodes

Volvo Penta anodes protect drive and engine components that sit in water and are exposed to galvanic corrosion. Replacing them as part of routine servicing helps reduce avoidable corrosion on sterndrives, saildrives, transom hardware, propellers, and engine cooling circuits where pencil anodes are used. This collection focuses on anodes used on Volvo Penta applications.

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What details do I need to match Volvo Penta anodes?

Start with the exact drive or engine model and use year or serial where possible. Then identify the anode location you need, such as cavitation plate, trim tab, transom plate, ring anode, prop anode, or engine pencil anode location. Match the anode’s shape, thickness, and hole spacing, and confirm the fixing type. If you have a part number from the old anode or a parts diagram, use it to validate. Photos of the mounting point help a lot.

Which anode material should I choose for a Volvo Penta drive?

Material choice depends on where the boat spends most of its time, salt, brackish, or fresh water. Many owners replace like-for-like based on what has worn normally on their boat. If you are changing materials, switch the set across the same protected system together and keep material consistent within that system. If you tell us your typical water type and what the anodes fit, it is easier to guide the choice.

My Volvo Penta anodes are disappearing quickly, what should I check?

First confirm you are using the correct material for your environment and that all anode locations are fitted. Then check for clean contact surfaces, no paint under the anode, and tight fixings. Rapid wastage can also indicate stray current or bonding issues, so inspect bonding straps and wiring connections for corrosion and consider shore power and charger setups. Fast wear is a useful warning sign to investigate, not something to ignore.

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Volvo Penta anodes, selected by the details that prevent returns

Use drive model and anode position as your starting point

Volvo Penta setups often have multiple anode locations, and each location has its own shape. Identify whether you need a plate, ring, trim tab, or engine anode first, then match it to the correct drive model and year range. This avoids ordering the right brand anode for the wrong position.

Measurements beat guesswork on older or modified boats

On many boats, drives or hardware have been updated over time. If you are unsure, measure the old anode or the mounting area and compare hole spacing, thickness, and profile. A clear photo beside a ruler can confirm details when part numbers are missing. This is the quickest way to avoid a near-match that does not seat correctly.

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Fit clean contact surfaces, then inspect wear patterns

Clean the mounting surface to bare metal contact and remove paint or heavy oxide where the anode touches. After fitting, check tightness and inspect after a few trips. Steady wear is expected. Very fast wear can point to electrical issues or missing anodes elsewhere, while no wear often points to poor contact or unsuitable material for your environment.

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