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Yamaha Anodes

Yamaha anodes help protect outboard components that live in water, including the lower unit, brackets, and other exposed metal parts. Replacing anodes during routine servicing supports consistent corrosion protection and can help reduce avoidable damage over time. This collection covers anodes designed for common Yamaha outboard applications.

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What do I need to confirm a Yamaha anode?

Provide the outboard model and year, or serial if available. Then tell us the anode location you are replacing, such as trim tab, plate, or bracket position. Match the anode’s shape, thickness, and hole spacing, and confirm the fixing type. Part numbers from parts diagrams help validate, but photos of the old anode and the mounting point often confirm the details quickly when markings are missing.

Which anode material should I use on a Yamaha outboard?

Choose based on where you boat most of the time, salt, brackish, or fresh water. Many owners replace like-for-like based on what has worn normally on their outboard. If you are changing material, switch the set together and keep material consistent across the outboard’s protected system. If you tell us your water type and what the anodes fit, it is easier to guide the choice.

My Yamaha anodes are wearing out very quickly, what should I check?

Start by confirming correct material for your environment and that all expected anodes are fitted and seated correctly with clean contact. Then consider electrical issues if the boat is kept in a marina, including shore power, chargers, and corroded wiring connections. Also check bonding where applicable. Rapid wear is often an early indicator of a wider issue, so it is worth investigating rather than just replacing more frequently.

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Yamaha outboard anodes, chosen by fitment details

Identify the mounting point, then match the correct anode style

Yamaha outboards often use different anode shapes for different positions. A trim tab anode, a plate anode, and a small bracket anode each have their own fixing details. Start by identifying the exact mounting point you are replacing, then match the anode profile and hole spacing. This reduces the most common wrong-order issue.

Confirm measurements, especially on older or updated legs

If your outboard has been repaired or updated, the anode fitted today may not match what a generic model list suggests. Measure the old anode or the mounting point and compare thickness and hole spacing. A simple photo next to a ruler is often enough to validate quickly.

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Fit clean contact surfaces and monitor wear

Anodes need metal-to-metal contact. Remove paint and heavy oxide under the anode, tighten fixings evenly, and re-check after a few trips. Steady wear is normal. Extremely fast wear can point to electrical problems or marina conditions, while no wear often means poor contact or unsuitable material for your environment.

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